The Lost City of Petra
Hidden among the sandstone canyons of southern Jordan lies Petra, once the capital of the Nabataean kingdom and one of the most remarkable cities of the ancient world. At its height, around the first century CE, Petra was home to perhaps thirty thousand people and stood at the crossroads of the caravan routes that carried incense, spices and silk from Arabia, India and China to the markets of the Mediterranean.
The Nabataeans were originally a nomadic Arab tribe. What set them apart was their genius for water management. Petra receives less than 150 millimetres of rain a year, yet the city supported gardens, fountains and even a small lake. Engineers cut channels, terracotta pipes and underground cisterns directly into the rock, capturing flash floods that would otherwise have been wasted. Some estimates suggest the network could store twelve million gallons of water — enough to survive the longest droughts.
The city's monumental façades, carved straight into pink-red cliffs, were largely tombs rather than dwellings. The most famous, known today as the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), is in fact a royal mausoleum almost forty metres high. Its Hellenistic columns and pediment betray the influence of distant Alexandria, while the carving technique — working from the top down to avoid scaffolding — was a Nabataean speciality.
Petra's wealth depended on its position. Caravans paid tolls to cross Nabataean territory, and the city's merchants supplied them with water, lodging and protection. When the Roman emperor Trajan annexed the kingdom in 106 CE, this commercial advantage began to erode. New sea routes through the Red Sea allowed traders to bypass overland caravans altogether, and a series of earthquakes — the most destructive in 363 CE — damaged the water system beyond easy repair.
By the time the Byzantine bishops left Petra in the seventh century, the city was largely empty. Local Bedouin continued to live among the ruins, but for medieval Europeans Petra disappeared entirely. It was not until 1812 that the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, disguised as a Muslim pilgrim, persuaded a guide to take him through the Siq, the narrow gorge that forms the city's natural entrance. His brief description electrified European scholars.
Today, around a million tourists visit Petra each year, and conservation has become an urgent concern. The same wind and water that originally shaped the rock now eat into the carvings at a measurable rate; salt crystallising in the porous stone causes "sugaring", in which entire surfaces crumble to dust. UNESCO and the Jordanian government are experimenting with breathable consolidants and with diverting visitor traffic away from the most fragile monuments.